Home ofDante (and more), Florence is recognized worldwide as the “cradle of the Renaissance,” a city where you breathe art, fill your eyes with beauty and take a journey through human history.
But for us runners, the Tuscan capital is also the home, since 1984, of the Florence Marathon, the second most attended marathon in Italy with, at full strength, more than 10,000 runners plying the stones of Ponte Vecchio. This year’s edition, number 37, will take place on Sunday, Nov. 28, and will be affected, unavoidably, by the pandemic containment provisions…provisions that require only participants to enter the Village and strict adherence to anti-covid regulations, avoiding gatherings.
So, thinking of all those who will be coming to Florence as chaperones – a weekend in Florence is always in! – I wrote this mini-guide on the city.
WHAT TO DO.
I proceed by exclusion-what not to see. With two days to spare, my advice is to avoid The Uffizi: wonderful, if you love art you would spend a whole day there … precisely. The risk is that you may not fully enjoy the experience because the Uffizi, as well as the Pitti Palace, are always taken by storm, any day of the year, by tourists. However, if you want to give it a try then I suggest you go ahead and make a reservation (mandatory, to be made a day in advance), directly on the museum’s website, buying tickets online. Rates and procedure by clicking here.
Duomo complex, start and finish of the marathon…an immersion in the history of the 14th century: wherever you turn your eyes you have something to see: the Cathedral of Santa Maria Novella, the fifth largest church in Europe (it is over 150 meters long) , with Brunelleschi’s Dome towering over of the city. Admission to the Cathedral is free but my advice is to also buy tickets to visit, if you are not afraid of heights, the Dome and/or the Terraces, Giotto’s Bell Tower and the Baptistery of St. John with the adjoining Museum. Information, fares and purchase tickets here.
Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria, the heart of the city, the seat of the City Hall. Unthinkable not to pass by, one of the iconic places with the Arnolfo Towerand the ashlar facade. You can visit the adjoining museum, which is part of the Florentine Civic Museums cluster, with a single ticket that includes admission to other facilities (such as the Brancacci Chapel).
Palazzo Strozzi, one of the most impressive Renaissance palaces, owned by the Strozzi family, bitter rivals of the Medici. Today it is home to a museum, and through Jan. 30 the featured exhibition is dedicated to Jeff Koons, an iconic contemporary artist of neo pop and kitsch art.
If you love modern art, another top exhibition, this time of the immersive kind: Inside Dali, at the Cathedral of the Image in St. Stephen’s Square, is precisely an immersive kind of exhibition: large light panels recounting the life and works of the Spanish genius. Also ideal for children and young people.
As if that were not enough, this last weekend of November there are many events planned in the city: in Piazza Santo Spirito, Oltrarno district and right next to the Basilica of the same name by Brunelleschi (inside there is also the Crucifix by Michelangelo), Sunday is scheduled the Holy Spirit Fair, a traditional event for Florentines with stalls selling handicrafts and local products.
If, on the other hand, you love shopping, IMPERDIBLE appointment, from Friday, at the Fortezza da Basso: over 50,000 items of men’s, women’s and children’s clothing with 90% discounts inside the exclusive sale
“Secret Room by YOOX”
. Free admission with reservations required:
Are you a nerd and think Commodore 84 is perfection? Then you can’t miss the exhibition-market that brings together fans of retrocomputing, retrogaming and the history of Computer Science. At the Antico Spedale di Sant’Antonio, in Lastra a Signa, the 13th edition of Firenze Bit Vintage ’21.
Last but not least, to breathe in some Christmas atmosphere, the Santa Croce Square Christmas Market: crafts and typical products from all over Europe. Proceeds from various initiatives support the Tuscan Cancer League.
WHAT TO EAT.
Congratulations! If you’ve read this far you deserve a prize–you choose sweet or savory!
Tuscan culinary tradition is taaanta stuff-you’re spoiled for choice. If you love meat, you’re in the right region–the Fiorentina here never goes below four fingers high! (and the half-pound weight) Two really top addresses: “Il Latini” in Santa Maria Novella, a must-visit restaurant for appreciating Tuscan cuisine: ribollita, trippa alla fiorentina, fagioli all’uccelletto. You dine amidst charcuterie and drink very well. Not suitable for a romantic evening. Always make reservations, and well in advance.
Less quaint but top meat and killer desserts: Perseus . To start, try the bruschetta with lard; to finish, the zabaglione-filled meringue or the cantucci–you won’t be disappointed. Editor’s note: If you then need a good Alkaseltzer, go 200 meters and you’ll find the Antica Farmacia Molteni–a name, a guarantee (…no, we’re not related!).
To taste real Lampredotto-a kind of tripe prepared from the abomasum, one of the stomach sections of cattle-my personal top address is at Aurelio’s, the King of Lampredotto, a kiosk in Piazza Trabucci.
For a quick lunch, perhaps of Tuscan schiacciata: I’ Girone de’ Ghiotti, in the San Giovanni neighborhood or SENZ’ALTRO BISTROT, in Santa Croce.
If you love seafood, the place to go is Da Settimo, a short distance from Cascine Park: an institution, it has been around since 1975. Chowder is sacred here!
If you are a vegetarian die top addresses: L’OV-Osteria Vegetariana, traditional dishes revisited near Piazza del Carmine, under the Arno) and Il Vegetariano, Florence’s first historic vegetarian restaurant (in existence since 1981).
And with a giant lampredotto sandwich (or a schiacciata) and a glass of Chianti, you’re ready to hit the Lungarno and cheer on the runlovers (and our own Pietro) as the marathon passes by!
D’icché there is a lack of anything!
main image credit: Nikascorpionka on DepositPhotos.com