Running shoes to start again: how to choose the right model without going crazy

A practical, no-nonsense guide to finding your perfect running shoes—minus the aggressive January marketing.

• The golden rule is the comfort filter: if the shoe doesn’t feel right as soon as you put it on, it’s not the right one—regardless of the price.
• Choose based on your real profile: someone starting from scratch has different needs than someone running three times a week or doing hybrid workouts.
• Don’t get obsessed with drop: unless you have specific physical issues, it’s secondary to how the shoe actually feels.
• Avoid falling for the hype: buying carbon-plated shoes to run slow paces is pointless and expensive.
• Watch your size: black toenails are a sign your shoes are too tight—always leave a thumb’s width of space in the toe box.
• Be honest about your use: don’t buy trail shoes if you’re just running on a treadmill or the neighborhood sidewalk.

January Is That Cruel Month When Panettone Guilt Turns Into a Sudden, Almost Violent Urge to Run

So what’s the first thing you do? Open your browser, type “best running shoes,” and get hit by a tsunami of terms like superfoam, carbon plate, energy return, and price tags that look like the GDP of a small country.

The truth is, picking shoes to start (or restart) running shouldn’t require an aerospace engineering degree. We often overcomplicate things by searching for the “absolute best” shoe, forgetting there’s only the “best shoe for you.” And no—it’s probably not the one that just won the New York Marathon on the feet of an Ethiopian runner who weighs forty kilos less than you.

Here’s a map to help you navigate this jungle, with no unnecessary jargon and a healthy dose of pragmatism.

The Mother Rule: Comfort Above All

There’s a lot of science behind running, but the most important rule is surprisingly simple: the comfort filter.
Here’s how it works: you put the shoe on. Walk a few steps (or do a quick jog on the store’s treadmill). If you feel anything off—a pinch on the instep, a slipping heel, a seam brushing your pinky toe—that’s not your shoe.
Your brain is excellent at protecting your body. If the shoe feels good, your stride will be more natural and your risk of injury will drop. Don’t let anyone convince you that “it’ll break in” or “you need to get used to it.” The right shoe is like a good friend: it puts you at ease right away—not after three months of suffering.

The 3 Profiles (And What to Look For)

We’re not all the same. Identify who you are today, not who you hope to be in six months.

Starting From Scratch
If you haven’t run in years—or ever—your tendons and joints need a hug, not a slap in the face. Look for protection and stability. You don’t need a featherlight shoe; you need one that forgives poor form and absorbs impact well.
What to look for: cushioned daily trainers, generous midsoles, solid heel structure.

I Run 3 Times a Week
You’ve got a base, your legs are moving. You need a “workhorse,” an all-rounder shoe. You’re not racing—you just want to log miles in peace.
What to look for: reliability and durability. A well-balanced shoe, not too soft (which can bog you down), not too firm.

I Do Hybrid (Running + Gym)
If you run 5K then dive into squats or burpees, you’ve got a problem: super soft running shoes make you unstable under weight, CrossFit shoes feel like bricks when you run.
What to look for: a compromise. Low drop, responsive but not pillowy midsole, grippy outsole. Or, just accept changing shoes between treadmill and weights.

5 Easy Criteria to Choose

Forget endless spec sheets. Focus on these five things:

1. Comfort: see above. It matters more than you think.
2. Real Use: be brutally honest. Are you running marathons or doing 30-minute jogs three times a week to blow off steam? Buy for what you do today.
3. Rotation: people will tell you to have two pairs. And yes, alternating can help prevent injuries by slightly shifting stress patterns. But if you’re just starting, one well-chosen pair is more than enough. Rotation is for later.
4. Drop (heel-to-toe differential): it’s become a fetish. 0mm, 4mm, 10mm. Unless you have a specific issue (like Achilles tendon pain, which prefers a higher drop), a standard 8–10mm works great for most people. Don’t overthink it.
5. Surface: if you’re running in parks or on the road, go for road shoes. Only use trail shoes if you’re actually hitting rough trails. Using trail shoes on pavement is like driving a tractor on the highway: loud and uncomfortable.

3 Classic January Mistakes

We’ve all made them. Try to avoid them.

Buying for Style
You spot the carbon-plated €250 shoe. It’s gorgeous. They say it gives you a “boost.” But if you’re running at 6:00/km pace, that plate will feel like a wooden plank and just hurt your feet. Leave the “super shoes” to the pros—or save them for when you’re a lot faster.

Wrong Size
Walking shoes should fit just right. Running shoes? A bit bigger. Your feet swell as you run. If your toes touch the front in the store, you’ll have black nails after 10K. Follow the thumb rule: there should be a thumb’s width of space between your longest toe and the tip of the shoe.

The Extreme Shoe
Too minimalist (like “barefoot” shoes) or too maximalist (with 5cm platforms). Extremes take time to adapt to. If you’re starting out, the middle ground is your best friend.

Final Checklist (You Can Even Print It)

Before buying, ask yourself:

• Did I try the shoes with the socks I run in?
• Is there enough toe room (thumb rule)?
• Is my heel locked in or slipping out?
• Do I feel stable or wobbly?
• Do I like them? (Yes, looks matter too—running in shoes you like helps your mood).

A good choice means forgetting you even have shoes on after the first hundred meters. Everything else is just marketing.