A straight line between the silence of the Apennines and the sound of waves in Portofino — a walking journey that shifts your perspective, backpack on your shoulders.
- The Via del Sale is a historic trekking route connecting Varzi (Pavia) to Portofino (Genoa), covering roughly 90 km.
- It’s an ideal 3-day adventure, with demanding stages (25–30 km/day) that are extremely rewarding.
- The real magic lies in the stark contrast: you begin in the wild ridges and forests of the Oltrepò Pavese and finish at the deep blue Ligurian Sea.
- Logistics are key: plan how to reach Varzi (usually by car or local buses) and how to return from Portofino.
- Your gear should be light but complete: layered clothing, quality mid- or high-cut hiking shoes, plenty of water, and only the essentials for overnight stays.
- This is more than just a hike — it’s a micro-adventure that connects you to landscapes and history, following ancient trade routes.
From Mountains to Sea in 3 Days: The Allure of the Via del Sale
When you think of multi-day treks, you might picture some epic quest — long beard, blistered feet, wilderness drama. But in Italy, we have something more like a treasure hunt — ending in one of the most beautiful seaside squares in the world. Welcome to the Via del Sale, a route linking Varzi in the Apennines to Portofino on the Ligurian coast.
The name isn’t random: for centuries, this was the trade route merchants used to carry salt from the Republic of Genoa to inland markets — a commodity as precious as gold. Today, for you, it’s pure landscape in motion. In just three days, you’ll move from the surreal quiet of high-altitude woods and windswept ridges to the salty breeze and bright colors of the coast. The magic lies in this quantum leap in scenery. It’s not a casual stroll — but when Portofino’s blue horizon opens before you after three days of green and rock, it’s all worth it.
Practical Info: How to Get There, Where to Sleep, When to Go
Before you charge off into the hills, it’s time to face logistics — the least romantic, but most essential part of any adventure.
- Getting to Varzi (the start): Varzi, in the province of Pavia, isn’t exactly Italy’s central transport hub. The easiest way is by car, which you can leave in long-term parking (always check options with your accommodation). If you’re using public transport, you’ll need to rely on local buses from nearby train stations like Pavia or Voghera — doable, but requires patience and careful schedule-checking.
- Getting back from Portofino (the finish): Much easier. From Portofino, you can reach Santa Margherita Ligure by a short bus or ferry ride. From there, trains will easily take you back home — or back to your car in Varzi if you arranged a shuttle transfer to the start.
- When to go: Late spring (April–June) and early fall (September–October) are ideal. Summer sun on exposed ridgelines can be brutal, and in winter, snow or mud can make some sections treacherous or impassable.
- Where to sleep: The route is well-trodden. You’ll find refuges, agriturismi, and B&Bs. The golden rule is book ahead. Especially on weekends and in peak season. Sleeping “under the stars” sounds poetic — until it isn’t.
The Route: 3 Days, Stage by Stage
This is the optimal route for fit hikers looking to condense the experience into a long weekend. Expect 25–30 km and solid elevation gain each day.
Day 1: Varzi to Capanne di Cosola (or nearby)
You leave Varzi and head straight up. This is the day you say goodbye (more or less) to civilization and dive into the Apennines. The trail is a mix of farm roads and old mule tracks climbing into the ridges. You’ll pass Monte Chiappo and Monte Cavalmurone, traversing beech forests and open pasture. In no time, the city pace will feel like another lifetime.
- Estimated distance: 25–28 km
- Elevation gain: around 1500 m
- Difficulty: Medium-high (due to both length and elevation)
Day 2: Capanne di Cosola to Torriglia/Monte Antola Area
This is the day of panoramic ridgelines. You’ll walk high above the valleys with a 360° view across Liguria, Piedmont, and Emilia-Romagna. Fatigue starts to build, but the trail is usually well-marked. You’ll descend toward the area of Torriglia or Monte Antola — back to more human elevations and cozy refuges.
- Estimated distance: 28–30 km
- Elevation gain: 1200 m
- Difficulty: High (longest and toughest stage)
Day 3: Torriglia/Monte Antola Area to Portofino
The grand finale. You’ll start your morning still among the Apennines, but after one last solid climb, the sea begins to appear — first as a sliver of blue on the horizon, then larger, closer. The trail becomes steeper, the forests more Mediterranean. You’ll smell the sea long before you reach it. The final descent toward the coast and Portofino is a true celebration — one last act of effort before diving into Ligurian elegance.
- Estimated distance: 25–28 km
- Elevation gain: approx. 800 m (mostly early in the day, then downhill)
- Difficulty: Medium (final descent is long and technical in parts)
What to Pack (the Essentials for 3 Days)
The golden rule: go light. Every extra kilo will feel like a punishment by day three.
- Clothing: three base layers (technical), a fleece or mid-layer, and a light waterproof shell. Don’t forget a hat and light gloves — even in spring.
- Shoes: don’t skimp. Mid- or high-cut hiking boots, well broken in, with ankle support. Some stretches are rocky.
- Water: carry at least 2 liters total capacity. If you’re unsure about refill points between refuges (especially on ridgelines), consider extra. Lightweight purification tabs or filters add another layer of safety.
- Navigation: Paper map and compass (for purists), but most importantly, a GPS device or trusted hiking app with offline tracks. Cell signal is spotty at best.
- Basic first aid kit: blister patches, painkillers, disinfectant. You’re not MacGyver — but prevention is gold.
Why This Trek Is a Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience
The Via del Sale isn’t just “putting one foot in front of the other.” It’s a reset. In three days, you go from total silence — hearing only your breath and footsteps — to the curated charm and low-key glamour of Portofino. It forces you to slow down, to respect fatigue, and most of all, to measure success not in emails sent or deadlines met, but in kilometers covered and summits crossed.
It’s the perfect micro-adventure — no intercontinental flight required — but it gives you a rare chance to experience two faces of Italy: the wild and the refined, powered only by your legs. Do it. Then let’s talk.