We have already talked about cycling many times, and we will try to talk about it more basically for three reasons.
The first is that cycling is a beautiful sport. The second reason is that-as we have said many times before-pedaling is perfect cross-training for runners because it allows us to develop muscles antagonistic to those of running that will come to our aid when we are tired. The last important aspect is related to adrenaline and distance: by going faster we have a lot of fun, and in one outing we can see a lot more scenery than in running training.
But we cannot practice cycling without one key element: the bicycle. ;)
So, to help you, here is a quick guide on how to initially navigate when you decide (or are thinking) about buying a bicycle. And, for simplicity’s sake, let’s go by points!
1. Decide on a rough budget
Especially if you are a novice, the budget is the first thing to decide. Just to give you a price orientation, you will hardly be able to find anything new and at least satisfactory for less than 1,500 euros. This is the first reference figure
Which means: start from that figure and work your way up!
You’ll excuse my brutality, I know that 1,000 euros is not a small amount, but below this price you will only be able to find used bikes (more on that later) or something new but not at all “satisfactory.” Which means you run the risk of buying something you’ll want to replace at the first available opportunity. To use a metaphor that we runners can understand, it would be like running the old canvas Superga shoes you used to use for gymnastics in middle school.
The good thing is that a road bike you can use for years (unlike running shoes) and can accompany you for tens of thousands of miles.
Let’s do some quick math to see that the investment is worth the purchase anyway: a modern running shoe costs an average of 120 euros and lasts about 600 kilometers, so it costs you 0.20€/Km.
If you cycle 6,000 km per year (which is little for a cyclist but for a runner can be a plausible distance), in two years a 1,500 euro bike will have cost you 0.125€/Km. From there on, the figure decreases again so, as you see, the “use value” is relative.
Want more benchmark figures?
It’s not simple but, in principle, below 2,500 euros you are getting a good “entry level” bike; between 2,500 and 5,000 euros you can already aim for a mid-level bike; above 5/6,000 euros we are talking about “nice bikes.” And you can easily exceed even 10,000 euros for the top of the range.
2. Can I buy a used bike?
In principle, yes. The only “wise old uncle” advice I feel I can give you is-unless you buy it from a friend who you know how he treated it-to not rely on generic classified ad sites and go to a specialty store. It is indeed a good idea, especially when you are not an expert, to rely on dealers who can advise you and who are accountable for the product they offer. In private negotiations you may run into damaged products and not be able to recognize them. Of the sòle, as they would say in Rome.
Cyclists may change bikes for a thousand reasons and do so with some frequency. So it is unlikely that the used bike you find in the store has any problems-then the shopkeeper would not take it back as a used bike for sale.
I dwell on any damage to the frame (especially carbon) because it compromises the safety of the bike, and being downhill at 70 km/h with the frame breaking is an experience I would not wish on anyone.
To get started, however, a good used one can be a very good idea. It does not matter if it is not a very recent model, what matters is that it is safe and affordable!
3. Ask yourself in what streets you will use it and how
There are racing bikes made to go only on asphalt, some that are more “racing” and others that are more comfortable and suitable for endurance riding, and still others that can also do dirt and dirt roads (the now well-known “gravel” bikes) so understanding what use you will make of them allows you to orient yourself on the right type of bike.
Racing bikes have pusher geometries and greater responsiveness. They are also generally a bit more uncomfortable but, on the other hand, they are the most fun.
Endurance bikes have a quieter, more comfortable setup; they are made to be comfortable even on longer rides (but your butt will hurt at first on any bike, know that!).
Gravel bikes are made to fit wider, knobby tires. They are comfortable and, as I told you just above, they are suitable for tackling any route, even off-road.
Gravels are still an evolving type, and there are many types emerging, but if you like adventure, this is the right bike for you.
4. Carbon frame or aluminum frame? What about the brakes? What about the “change?”
I put the technical issue in one place because to talk about it in depth would take hours but I just want to go fast to give you a rough idea.
The aluminum frame is generally heavy, but also more durable. It is also characteristically stiffer and, as a result, somewhat less comfortable. It is generally used for “entry level” bikes because it is cheaper.
For the carbon fiber frame is the material in which most racing bikes are made. First, because it resists stress well and is lightweight; but in the rare cases when it cracks, it is worth replacing because the whole structure may be compromised. Economically, it is also more expensive.
As for brakes, I personally prefer disc brakes-they are the most up-to-date solution and allow safer and more modular braking in all weather conditions.
Traditional pad brakes also perform their function perfectly, let’s be clear, only they can tend to lock in some conditions and in wet conditions they do not perform at their best. But all it takes is a little care: they have been used for decades and are more than valid.
The assembly (i.e., generically everything having to do with the drivetrain) is the least priority aspect when buying your first bicycle; you will only begin to develop a feel for it later. You will then have time to figure it out a bit more but, for now, what matters is having the right ratio between the sprocket pack and crankset. And learn how to use it properly.
Above all, listen to Uncle’s advice: a couple of extra teeth to the sprocket pack never hurts. When you are uphill, you will thank me. ;)
Aesthetics
Does aesthetics matter in a racing bike? In 99% of cases, yes. And not because a nice bike goes faster-obviously-but because, when you like it, you feel more like getting on it to ride. So this aspect also has some weight in the purchase.
After all, as I always say, if you can’t come first, at least come good!;)
(Main image credits: photodesign on DepositPhotos.com)